In 1815, the wars against invading Napoleonic troops had left famine and devastation in the Austrian Alps, specifically in Salzach, near Oberndorf, the border between Bavaria and Austria. Floods and crop failures have compounded the difficulties.
And to make matters worse, the mice had gnawed the bellows of the organ of the Saint-Nicolas church in Oberndorf. Nothing seemed to work this Christmas.
Joseph Franz Mohr, a 26-year-old assistant pastor, walks through a snowy field on Christmas Eve morning. We are in 1818, and in a pocket he finds a piece of paper with a poem he had written two years earlier: “Silent night, love night”, in German “Stille Nacht, heilige Nacht”.
When they are lost, they are appreciated: peace and harmony
Mohr goes to his friend, the teacher and organist Franz Xaver Gruber, and asks him to write a melody for the text in the blink of an eye, and for two voices with guitar accompaniment, since the organ had been damaged. In the afternoon, just in time for the Christmas mass, the work is finished.
Mohr sings the tenor, Gruber plays the bass and the faithful of St. Nicholas in Oberndorf are delighted. This song gave back to the people of the region what they no longer believed existed after the war: a world in peace and harmony. This Christmas carol was comfort and hope for the souls mistreated by the Napoleonic invasion.
“Silent night, night of love”: an eternal hit
Here is how one of the stanzas goes:
Night of peace Night of love,
humble listen to the faithful shepherd,
celestial choirs that announce health
thank you and glory in great plenitude…
Thus, since 204 Christmas this song, originally written in German, has been around the world. The Rainer family of Tyrolean singers sang it for Russian Tsar Alexander I and Austrian Emperor Francis I. In what is now Germany, it was created in Leipzig in 1831. Eight years later, in New York.
Since 2011, “Silent Night” has even been included in the list of intangible cultural heritage of UNESCO.
Mohr, helper of the poor
Joseph Mohr was unaware of the worldwide craze he aroused with his Christmas carol. The illegitimate son of a weaver and a deserter musketeer, he ordered the construction of a shelter for needy old people, next to the church of Wagrain, his last station as pastor, who – after having finished their time of workers – were left to their fate and expelled from the farm.
He also built a school and sold his cow to pay for children’s books. When Mohr died aged 56, he was buried in the grave of one of the homeless people he was helping. Today, thousands of tourists make a pilgrimage to the Chapel of the Silent Night in Oberndorf every year.
Today, this song continues to be a balm for the inhabitants of a world that seems increasingly precarious, violent and unjust. His lyrics and music work the magic of putting listeners in a state of reflection, and at least reconciliation with themselves.
(uh)
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
Market in Bratislava, Slovakia
One of the most enchanting Christmas markets can be found in the heart of the capital, on Hlavne Namestie Square. At stalls in front of historic buildings, visitors can buy handmade gifts or try local dishes like loksa pancakes, poppyseed cakes and grog, a hot spiced rum. The tower of the old town hall offers a panoramic view.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
An Italian Christmas in Milan
The Christmas market at the foot of Milan’s iconic Duomo is one of the most impressive in Italy. The Mercatino di Natale has more than 60 craft stalls made by local artisans, including Christmas decorations such as nativity scenes and Epiphany stockings. Don’t miss the gigantic Christmas tree in the center of the Víctor Manuel II gallery with its luxurious decorations.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
Christmas in the mine Falun, Sweden
Sweden’s biggest Christmas market takes place in an unusual place: the Falun mine. The old copper mine is no longer operational and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it a unique place to soak up the Christmas spirit. The Old Market sells local food and crafts, and even has musical performances on December 4, the only day it will be open in 2022.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
From cathedrals to goblins in Cologne, Germany
One of Germany’s most popular Christmas markets can be found at the foot of Cologne’s Gothic cathedral. While its lights, food stalls and decor are impressive, another big draw is the Heinzel Market in Old Town, with goblins and ornately decorated huts where mulled wine can be comfortably sipped. There is also an ice rink.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
Market in the center of Brussels, Belgium
The Brussels Christmas market is a highlight of the season in the Belgian capital. Its 200 chalets are located around the opulent Grand Place, and there’s even an ice rink and a giant Christmas tree with twinkling lights. This year, the market celebrates its 200th anniversary and offers a program of shows to delight diners.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
Strasbourg, the “Christmas capital”
Located on the German border in the Alsace region, the French city of Strasbourg proclaims itself the “Christmas capital” because it is home to the oldest Christmas market in France, dating from 1570. You can discover its 300 Christmas huts there. with handicrafts, and gaze at the beauty of the 30 meter high tree, savoring the Christmas cookies called “bredle”.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
Sausages and gifts in Prague, Czech Republic
Every year, Prague’s Christmas markets attract tourists and residents alike, with the market in Wenceslas Square in the heart of the Old Town standing out among them. It offers handicrafts, gifts and local specialties like klobasa, a Czech sausage. The nearby Old Town Market has a livelier atmosphere, with a stage and a number of shows.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
Traditional decorations in Basel, Switzerland
Considered the most beautiful in the country, this market is located in the old town and puts you in the Christmas spirit with its decorated Christmas tree and delicious snacks such as Swiss raclette and “basler läckerli”, a similar spiced bread with ginger bread. Have a mulled wine and walk to the Pfalz terrace of the cathedral, to enjoy the view of the Rhine.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
Skating at the Tuileries, Paris
Paris has about fifteen Christmas markets. Our choice is the big market in the Tuileries garden, which has an ice rink and lots of activities. A smaller alternative is the charming Montmartre market, on Place des Abbesses, near the Sacré Cour basilica. There is also the Gare Saint-Lazare Christmas Market, which offers high-quality artisanal products.
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The best Christmas markets in Europe
An old-fashioned Christmas in Salzburg
Advent markets have been held in Austria since the 15th century. The Christkindlmarkt in Salzburg, which will be open until January 1, is a must. Since the center of Salzburg is a Unesco World Heritage Site, it’s a great place to imagine Christmases of yesteryear. The New Year is also celebrated here in the city.
Author: Sarah Hucal
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